This entry isn’t to describe a project or procedure, but simply an announcement regarding that backlog. I underestimated how quickly the Internet would allow word about the shop to spread, and the volume of incoming work soon outpaced my ability to turn it around immediately. As the backlog grew, I felt the fairest way handle the incoming boxes was in the order received, and only a few were kept open at a time to avoid confusion. Several months of doing work in that strict first in / first out manner revealed it wasn’t the most efficient. Not knowing until a box was opened that an unusual color of stem stock needed to be ordered—a wait that could have happened while the pipe was working its way to the head of the line—is a good example. It also became clear that in the course of a day short “windows” of time occasionally occurred where a quick-and-easy repair could have been performed without delaying the major projects.

So, a wall of shelving was installed and and filled with removable, numbered, mailroom-style sorting trays, and all incoming boxes will now be opened and unloaded into them immediately. This should permit a “triage” sort of assessment, and (hopefully) more efficient net throughput for the shop.

What I really need, of course, is a full time office manager / packer / un-packer / scheduler / bill payer / errand runner / e-mail answerer that would let me stay in the shop all day, but no luck so far. Until then, I’ll just have to keep tuning the overall system for optimum efficiency.

As of this writing, turnaround is about four weeks, and I’m determined not to let it get any longer.  Things like Greg Pease’s appraisal, the recent Chicago show, and (the latest) a mention in P&T magazine, are conspiring to make that goal as difficult as possible, however.

My profoundest thanks to all who have waited for their pipes so far, both finished and returned over the past months, and those still awaiting work. Your patience and understanding is greatly appreciated.

Shift the topic to the method of creation—carved versus molded—and it’s the other extreme: Virtually unanimous agreement that carved is superior. The perception is that they are sleeker, more comfortable (thinner through the bite zone), more elegant in contour, and better finished. Their being considered “better” is such a slam dunk, in fact, most smokers wouldn’t think twice if they had their choice for the same price when buying a pipe.

Like many things, however, concept is what is sold, but an example is what you buy. A carved stem doesn’t necessarily have the attributes listed above. In fact, because they are labor intensive to make, the same time consuming details that make them potentially superior are often the ones that get omitted or overlooked. Personally, I’d much rather have a well fitted and finished molded stem than a so-so carved one.

There is also a third, “hybrid” category that’s not frequently seen…

…and PSPR&R might be the only repair outfit currently making replacement stems in such a way, though it has doubtless been done before. It is taking a molded stem that’s larger in every dimension than the desired final result, and carving it like rod stock.

This approach captures the best of both worlds: complete control of the shape for the maker, and the economy of molded blanks for the customer. Are such stems still “hand carved?” Of course. Is the draft hole “frozen” at the size it is molded? No, it can be enlarged if desired, the same as any other stem. It’s an engineering axiom that all price vs. performance solutions involve trade-offs, however… so, what’s the downside in this case?

That is a good question, and the reason for this blog entry. There are none that I am aware of. I’ve heard for years that the actual material used in rod stock is of a higher quality than molded, but examples abound that run contrary to what one would expect if that were categorically the case. Further, there’s a correlation vs. causation variable that’s rarely considered: the more expensive the pipe, the more likely it is to have a rod cut stem and the more likely it is to be better cared for… and there’s no question that long term storage, routine maintenance, and post-smoke cleaning significantly affect a stem’s appearance and life expectancy, especially for vulcanite.

To help you decide the issue for yourself, at least with regard to shaping, here are some actual examples of “hybrid” stems.

Click any picture to enlarge.

A Charatan Rhodesian

A stem for a Loewe Billiard:

This stem doesn’t look at first glance like one that would need to be carved from an oversized blank, but it was necessary to capture the proper “wedge” profile. Most molded stems that are closer in size and length to the original are somewhat scooped, which makes for more comfortable clenching for many smokers, but doesn’t look authentic.

A GBD Rhodesian with a massive 15/16″ shank:

This GBD 9438 is an example of the convertible pipe concept. Like a reversible trouser belt, or a churchwarden supplied with a short stem so it can be smoked more often, the owner of this pipe wanted a dramatic, swan-neck “Dunhill CK profile” stem available in addition to the original.

A Klein diamond shank Volcano

This pipe’s deceptively wide, flattened diamond shank, together with the same wedge profile requirement as the billiard above meant that for as small as its stem was, the largest “beer can” blank was still necessary. The bottom photo shows how the scooped profile of even the largest CNC-cut blank kept it from filling the bill.

Until the next workbench adventure, then.

All the best, and Great Smoking,

George

The owner of the Wally Frank cavalier that’s the subject of this refurb project knew the difference. He picked it up on the estate market for a song, emailed to see if I agreed with his assessment, and dropped it in the mail.

The Patient

That’s it, pictured to the right. Items of note are that the stem is not salvageable, and must be replaced…

…and the rim has a number of smallish chips Also, the side of the bowl appears to have been marked by a felt tip pen:

Finally, the interior of the bowl is massively caked with carbon. The photo doesn’t show it well, but the chamber’s usable diameter is about the same as the flat end of an aluminum pipe nail. It’s a good bet that the full-length channel of the tubular shank was badly caked as well. (It was)

The good news is that few people would smoke a pipe this hard if it wasn’t a good smoker. The biggest risk in buying a pipe in this condition is that the bowl might be deeply charred or have some splitting that can’t be seen until it is reamed.

The Procedure

The first order of business is to simply clean the pipe. The quarter-inch cake is extremely hard, and the shank so blocked with tar that ordinary cleaning tools will have little if any effect. The best way to deal with such a situation is to not think of it as cleaning at all, but simply as an unfinished block of briar that needs further carving. Treated that way—using maker’s tools instead of cleaning tools—the pipe is quickly and easily rid of all excess material. Then, the dents and chips on the rim are expanded with techniques that use heat and steam so what’s “missing” re-occupies its original space.

In short, remove what isn’t wanted, and put back what is.

Here’s the result:

NOTE: Dents that actually cut the wood’s fibers, and/or chips where the wood is completely gone will never be 100% recoverable. What the wood decides to give back is all you get. (Shortening the bowl—a procedure known as “topping”—will leave a smooth, chip-free rim, but in the case of an English classic, is like burning down a barn to get rid of the rats. The change in proportion spoils the pipe’s line and visual balance.)

Next is to clean the bowl “back to wood” with the least amount of sanding possible. First, the deeply encrusted grime must be removed. Simple warm running water and a proper brush that won’t scratch but will remove the dirt is all it takes. The permanent marker stripe requires stronger measures. A complete immersion of the stummel—the wooden half of any briar pipe—in full strength denatured alcohol for 24 hours will usually do the trick, and in this case worked perfectly. Following that, a light, all-over sanding with 1000 grit paper to cut whatever glaze might be present, so the stain will be absorbed evenly.

When those steps are finished, it looks like this:

Making a high quality stem is too complicated to describe in detail, and requires specialized tools, but the concept is straightforward. True “hand cut” stems CAN be made from molded blanks, if a blank that is oversize in all dimensions can be found. If not, rod stock must be used. Here is the untouched blank next to the original:

The first step is to cut the tenon to the same dimensions as the old one:

And after joining to the stummel, carve it to the desired shape.

(In this case, the owner asked that the new stem be made as slender as possible through the bite zone for comfort, and less “wedge-y” than the original in profile.)

All that remains is to stain and wax the wood, polish the new stem and removable drain cap, and bend the stem to match the original.

The Result

The comments option for this blog is turned off for the time being—things are still new at Casa Precision, and there’s too much going on to make tending that particular garden appealing at the moment—but feel free to use the Contact page’s email form if you have any comments or questions.

Until the next workbench adventure, then.

All the best, and Great Smoking,

George

“Don’t worry that you don’t think you have a story,” the reporter would have to assure him, “You do.”

Indeed they did. Always. Some brilliant television was the result.

Most pipe smokers and collectors, I’ve discovered, don’t think there’s much to briar repair and restoration, when they think about it at all. One reason is it tends to happen out of sight, I suppose, and another is because “repair work” in general brings to mind getting one’s automobile, plumbing, or teeth fixed. Unavoidable annoyances. Consider, though, watching a team of expert mechanics and fabricators bring an old Bentley back to life, step by step, from a neglected relic to a Best in Show winner. TV shows have been made with that as the subject as well, and they’ve been hits. The old car absolutely “had a story.”

It’s all in understanding what is going on. The background. The engineering. The history. The personalities. The materials. The choices. The techniques.

To the *informed* observer, all manner of mundane undertakings and processes are fascinating.

And there you have it—the inspiration for this blog. There are a few pipe carver/artisans who document and explain what they do on their websites, but so far as I know Precision Smoking Pipe R&R will be the first to do so for repair and restoration work. In my experience, people who are passionate about pipes and tobacco are keenly interested in all facets of the hobby. Several scholarly books on the subject have remained in print for generations, and the number of websites and forums devoted to the hobby is large. In every case, the desire for information is the bottom line. Passion generates curiosity, and knowledge fuels passion.

So, check in occasionally to see what’s been going on behind Precision’s curtain. I promise lots of photos, step-by-step explanations when applicable, and sufficient information to make what you see meaningful. Your own pipe may even one day have its 20 minutes of fame.

All the best, and Great Smoking,

George 10-20-07